In 1978, the launch of Mystère de Rochas marked a period when perfumery was entering a new era of complexity and allure. This was a time when fragrances were not merely scents but evocative creations that sought to capture elusive essences and emotions. The late 1970s saw a blend of nostalgia for classic elegance and a burgeoning fascination with the mysterious and enigmatic.
Choosing the name "Mystère" for their perfume was a deliberate decision by Parfums Rochas. In French, "Mystère" translates to "mystery" in English. The word itself conjures notions of intrigue, allure, and the unknown, suggesting something hidden yet enticing. For a perfume, "Mystère" suggests a fragrance that unfolds gradually, revealing layers of complexity and depth, much like a mystery unfolding its secrets.
Perfumery and mysteries share a common thread in their ability to captivate and intrigue. Just as a mystery novel or an enigmatic persona draws people in with its layers and unanswered questions, so too does a complex fragrance. The art of perfume-making often involves carefully guarded formulas, known only to a select few perfumers, echoing the secrecy and allure of a mystery.
A woman who resonates with a fragrance called "Mystère" would likely be someone who appreciates depth, sophistication, and a touch of intrigue in her scent choices. She is confident, mysterious in her own right, and appreciates the allure of the unknown. When she wears Mystère de Rochas, she might feel empowered, mysterious, and alluring herself, as if she holds a secret that others are eager to discover.
The name "Mystère" evokes images of dimly lit Parisian streets at night, whispered conversations in elegant parlors, and the lingering scent of exotic spices and flowers. It elicits feelings of intrigue, seduction, and sophistication, appealing to those who appreciate the finer nuances of life and fragrance. Mystère de Rochas, with its complex blend of nearly 200 ingredients, embodies this essence of mystery and sophistication, making it a timeless classic in the world of perfumery.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde chypre fragrance for women. This fragrance with nearly 200 ingredients is described as a woody chypre, floral and slightly oriental. The top note - a fresh citrus combined with the green touch of a moist foliage. The middle note - a floral blend of sweet white flowers; jasmine, rose, narcissus, ylang ylang, heliotrope, gardenia, magnolia, and honeysuckle and finished off with a composition of plum. The base note - a Rochas wood in a mysterious forest.
- Top notes: cardamom, aldehydes, bergamot, narcissus, cascarilla, coriander, hyacinth, galbanum and honeysuckle
- Middle notes: rosemary, violet, magnolia, gardenia, frangipani, lily of the valley, carnation, tuberose, plum, may rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang
- Base notes: orris root, cedar, cypress, juniper berry, oak moss, patchouli, civet, styrax, cedarwood and musk
Scent Story:
In the heart of a mysterious forest, deep within the ancient trees where sunlight filters through the dense canopy, there resides a wise woman known for her potent love potions. Her sanctuary is a haven of natural wonders, where the air is thick with the scent of moist foliage and the earthy richness of aged wood. Here, she crafts her potions with meticulous care, drawing upon the essence of the forest itself to weave spells of love and enchantment.
As I approach her dwelling, nestled amidst towering oak trees and fragrant juniper bushes, the forest seems to come alive with a symphony of sounds. Birdsong echoes through the branches, accompanied by the gentle rustling of leaves in the breeze. The air carries a crispness tinged with the sweet aroma of flowers blooming nearby, signaling the presence of jasmine, rose, and narcissus.
Entering her sanctuary, I am greeted by the sight of shelves lined with jars of dried herbs and roots, each imbued with potent magic. The wise woman herself is surrounded by vials and flasks, carefully measuring out ingredients for her latest creation. She begins with the top notes, blending the fresh citrus of bergamot with the spicy warmth of cardamom and the green touch of galbanum and hyacinth. Aldehydes lend a sparkling clarity to the composition, while honeysuckle adds a subtle sweetness that lingers in the air.
Moving to the middle notes, she selects a floral bouquet that captivates the senses. Sweet white flowers dominate the blend—jasmine, rose, narcissus, ylang-ylang, heliotrope, gardenia, magnolia, and honeysuckle—each contributing its unique essence to the potion. Tuberose and carnation add a hint of spicy allure, while plum lends a fruity depth that evokes the richness of ripe fruit hanging from the forest trees.
As the fragrance evolves, the base notes emerge like the deep, resonant tones of an ancient forest. Orris root and cedarwood impart a smooth, powdery texture, while cypress and juniper berry add a woody freshness that grounds the composition. Oak moss and patchouli provide an earthy richness, reminiscent of the forest floor after a summer rain, while civet and musk add a sensual warmth that envelops the senses in a lingering embrace.
In experiencing this enchanted scene, every sense is awakened—the sight of sunlight dappling through leaves, the scent of flowers mingling with earth and wood, the taste of herbal teas brewed from the forest's bounty, the sound of rustling leaves and birdsong, and the touch of rough bark and soft petals. Together, these elements weave a tale of ancient wisdom and natural magic, where Mystere by Rochas becomes not just a fragrance, but a portal to a world of mystery and enchantment crafted by the wise woman of the forest.
Product Line:
The range of bottle sizes and formulations available for Mystere de Rochas underscores its versatility and appeal to a wide audience of fragrance enthusiasts. Starting with the concentrated parfum, available in sizes ranging from the petite 0.25 oz to the more substantial 1 oz and 1.6 oz options, each bottle promises a rich, intense application that allows the wearer to indulge in the fragrance's full-bodied essence. The parfum's concentrated nature ensures a long-lasting experience, ideal for those who appreciate a more potent, lingering scent throughout the day.
For those preferring the convenience and lighter touch of an Eau de Parfum, Mystere de Rochas is offered in both splash and natural spray formats. The splash bottles, available in 1.6 oz, 3.3 oz, and the generous 6.1 oz size, provide a classic application method that allows for precise, personalized use. The natural spray bottles, also in 1.6 oz and 3.3 oz sizes, offer a modern twist with a fine mist that disperses the fragrance evenly across the skin, enhancing its accessibility and ease of wear.
Each bottle size and formulation of Mystere de Rochas caters to different preferences and occasions, whether for daily wear or special evenings out. From the concentrated luxury of the parfum to the versatile options of the Eau de Parfum, Mystere de Rochas ensures that every wearer can find their perfect match in experiencing its sophisticated blend of notes, ensuring a lasting impression with each application.
Prices Then & Now:
In 1978, Mystère de Rochas offered a range of sizes and formulations, each reflecting its luxurious appeal and catering to diverse preferences. The pricing structure at the time underscored the fragrance's premium positioning in the market, aligning with its sophisticated blend of floral, woody, and oriental notes.
The smallest size, the 0.25 oz parfum, was priced at $25 in 1978, which adjusted for inflation has a buying power equivalent to approximately $125.67 in 2024. This compact size provided a concentrated application, ideal for those seeking a potent and long-lasting fragrance experience.
For those desiring a slightly larger option, the 0.5 oz parfum retailed for $45 ($226.21 adjusted for inflation). This size offered a balance of portability and longevity, making it a popular choice among fragrance enthusiasts.
The 1 oz parfum, priced at $80 in 1978, would equate to about $402.14 in today's dollars. This larger size provided ample quantity for extended use, ensuring the wearer could enjoy Mystère de Rochas throughout the day without needing frequent replenishment.
Moving to the Eau de Parfum formulations, which offered a lighter yet still concentrated experience, the 1.6 oz Splash was available for $12.50 ($62.84 adjusted for inflation). This format provided versatility, allowing for precise application and customization according to personal preference.
The larger 3.3 oz Eau de Parfum Splash, priced at $20 in 1978 ($100.54 adjusted for inflation), catered to those who preferred a generous supply of their favorite fragrance, ideal for daily use over an extended period.
Lastly, the Eau de Parfum Natural Spray options included the 1.6 oz size at $14 ($70.38 adjusted) and the 3.3 oz size at $22 ($110.59 adjusted). These spray bottles offered convenience and ease of application, ensuring even distribution of the fragrance for a refreshing and long-lasting effect.
Overall, Mystère de Rochas' pricing in 1978 reflected its luxurious appeal and craftsmanship, providing options that catered to both discerning fragrance connoisseurs and those seeking everyday elegance. Adjusted for inflation, these prices highlight the enduring value and prestige associated with this iconic fragrance, making it a timeless choice for those who appreciate sophistication and quality in perfumery.
Bottles:
The bottles designed by Robert Granai and Serge Mansau for Mystère de Rochas exemplify a blend of elegance and modern design. For the parfum version, they crafted a crystal bottle in an elliptical shape, a choice that reflects sophistication and luxury. This crystal flacon is adorned with a burgundy cut glass stopper, adding a touch of opulence and serving as a fitting complement to the precious fragrance it contains. The elliptical shape of the bottle and stopper harmonize seamlessly, creating a cohesive and visually striking piece that enhances the allure of the parfum.
In contrast, the Eau de Parfum version of Mystère de Rochas is housed in a clear, tall rectangular glass bottle, designed for practicality and modern aesthetics. The simplicity of the rectangular form highlights the golden amber hue of the fragrance within, allowing it to shine through and catch the eye. The bottle is topped with a chunky black plastic cap shaped like an ellipse, echoing the elegant curvature of the parfum flacon's stopper. This design continuity between the parfum and Eau de Parfum bottles maintains a cohesive visual identity while catering to different preferences in packaging aesthetics.
The shapes of the bottle, with their clean lines, sensuous curves and sharp edges, reflect the modern aesthetic of the late 1970s, when minimalism and geometric forms were in vogue. This design choice speaks to the contemporary elegance of the perfume, aligning perfectly with its sophisticated and mysterious character.
When held in hand, the bottles for Mystère de Rochas feels substantial yet sleek, embodying the balance between strength and grace. Their design not only enhances the visual appeal of the fragrance but also serves as a tactile pleasure, inviting the user to experience its allure firsthand. Overall, the bottles for Mystère de Rochas, with their geometric elegance, is a testament to the artistry of perfumery and the timeless allure of mystery and sophistication.
Overall, both versions of Mystère de Rochas' bottles embody the brand's commitment to elegance and contemporary design. Whether in crystal with a burgundy stopper or clear glass with a black cap, each bottle reflects the essence of the fragrance it holds, offering a luxurious experience for aficionados of sophisticated perfumery.
Transition Periods:
The vintage bottle of Mystère de Rochas showcased in the photo represents a transitional period in the perfume's packaging evolution. While the bottle retains the classic "Mystère de Rochas" serigraphy on its front, (and not "Mystere Rochas"), indicating its heritage and traditional branding, it also features elements of the newer style box design. This transitional phase often occurs in the perfume industry when brands update their packaging to reflect contemporary trends while preserving the essence of their original identity.
The bottle itself likely maintains the timeless elegance of clear glass, showcasing the rich amber hue of the fragrance within. Its design is a nod to the past, characterized by its classic serif font and detailed script that embodies the sophistication of its era. Meanwhile, the newer style box design may introduce modern graphic elements or structural changes that align with current market preferences and aesthetic sensibilities.
This transitional period bottle serves as a collector's item, bridging the gap between the perfume's historical legacy and its evolving presence in the market. It symbolizes the continuity of Mystère de Rochas' allure and appeal across generations, capturing the essence of both timeless tradition and contemporary refinement in its design and presentation.
Fate of the Fragrance:
When Procter & Gamble took over Parfums Rochas in 1989, they initiated a reformulation of Mystère de Rochas, renaming it simply Rochas Mystere. This change marked a shift in the fragrance's identity while retaining its core essence. The reformulated scent emerged as a sharp, green, aromatic amber (oriental), and woody fragrance tailored for women, reflecting the evolving tastes and trends of the time.
The new incarnation of Rochas Mystere maintained its allure with a sophisticated blend that captured attention. The sharpness in its composition hinted at an assertive character, blending oriental notes that added depth and complexity. Woody undertones provided a grounded elegance, balancing the sharpness with a warm, inviting finish.
This reformulation aimed to refresh Mystère de Rochas for a contemporary audience while preserving its timeless appeal. The simplified name, Rochas Mystere, echoed a modern sensibility, emphasizing clarity and directness in both presentation and fragrance composition. Overall, the reformulated Rochas Mystere encapsulated the spirit of its predecessor while embracing new dimensions that resonated with the evolving tastes of women seeking distinctive, memorable scents.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green aromatic fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, coriander, galbanum and hyacinth
- Middle notes: cumin, rosemary, carnation, tuberose, violet, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and narcissus
- Base notes: sandalwood, styrax, cypress, patchouli, musk, civet, oakmoss and cedar
Scent Profile:
As I take in the first impression of Mystere, I'm immediately struck by a vibrant, green aromatic bouquet that dances on the senses. The initial burst unfolds with the crispness of aldehydes, blending seamlessly with the herbal tones of coriander and the earthy freshness of galbanum. These opening notes create a lively and invigorating start, setting the stage for what promises to be a multifaceted olfactory journey.
Moving deeper into the fragrance, the heart reveals a complex tapestry of notes that intermingle harmoniously. Cumin adds a hint of warmth, while rosemary and carnation lend their aromatic spiciness. Tuberose and jasmine infuse a floral richness, accompanied by the powdery sweetness of violet and orris root. Ylang-ylang and lily-of-the-valley contribute their delicate floral nuances, further enhancing the intricate layers of this composition. The middle notes of Mystere evoke a sense of depth and allure, drawing me deeper into its intricate story.
As Mystere begins to settle, the base notes emerge, grounding the fragrance with a sensuous and enduring foundation. Sandalwood provides a creamy smoothness, while styrax and patchouli introduce a touch of resinous warmth. Musk and civet add an animalic depth, imparting a subtle hint of mystery. Oakmoss and cedar bring a woody richness that lingers on the skin, enhancing the overall complexity and longevity of the scent.
In experiencing Mystere firsthand, each note unfolds like chapters in a captivating novel, revealing its character and charm with every breath. From its lively green opening to its deep, lingering base, Mystere embodies a sophisticated blend of freshness, floral elegance, and woody richness, making it a timeless fragrance that leaves a lasting impression.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Mystere, the beloved fragrance by Rochas, faced an uncertain fate when it was discontinued, though the exact date remains elusive, likely occurring around 1997. This decision marked the end of an era for enthusiasts who cherished its distinctive blend and allure. Mystere had carved a niche with its sharp, oriental woody profile, capturing the essence of sophistication and mystery. Its discontinuation left a void in the fragrance world, prompting nostalgic reflection on its legacy and impact. Despite its departure from shelves, Mystere's memory lives on among those who treasured its unique character and the evocative experiences it inspired.
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