Wednesday, December 18, 2019

Eau de Rochas by Rochas c1970

In 1948, Parfums Rochas introduced a groundbreaking fragrance named Eau de Roche, crafted by perfumer Edmond Roudnitska. This creation marked a departure from traditional perfumes of the time, embodying a fresh and classic Eau de Cologne style. Unfortunately, by 1956, Eau de Roche had been discontinued, becoming increasingly rare to find in subsequent years.

The choice of the name "Eau de Rochas" for their fragrance reflects both homage to its predecessor, Eau de Roche, and a clever play on words. In French, "Eau de Rochas" translates to "Water of Rochas" in English. The term "Eau de Rochas" suggests a natural freshness and purity akin to water sourced from Rochas, evoking imagery of pristine springs, cascading waterfalls or ornamental fountains associated with the Rochas estate.


When Eau de Rochas was launched in 1970, it was reintroduced under the creative direction of Nicolas Mamounas, who revitalized the original formula. This fragrance resonated with individuals seeking a fragrance that embodied timeless elegance and a refreshing, invigorating aura. The name change to Eau de Rochas in 1976, prompted by legal action from Hoffmann LaRoche over the similarity to their trademark "Roche," reinforced the perfume's association with the Rochas brand while maintaining its essence.

In 1993, Eau de Rochas was rebranded as Eau de Rochas Pour Homme, indicating a variant tailored for men. The bottle design, crafted by Serge Mansau, mirrored the timeless elegance and sophistication associated with the Rochas fragrance line.

Overall, "Eau de Rochas" conjures images of purity, freshness, and sophistication, appealing to individuals who appreciate classic elegance and the rejuvenating essence of water-inspired fragrances. Its enduring popularity across decades attests to its timeless appeal and the skillful adaptation of its original concept to suit evolving tastes and preferences.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? Eau de Rochas Pour Homme is classified as a fresh citrus aromatic chypre fragrance for men. An initial green and hesperid composition which gives and immediate impression of freshness. A heart of woody and sappy notes of cedar, vetiver and cypress.
  • Top notes: verbena, lime, mandarin orange, basil, grapefruit, bergamot and green lemon
  • Middle notes: jasmine, eglantine, mountain narcissus, coriander, carnation and wild rose
  • Base notes: cypress, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss, sweet briar, sandalwood, ambergris and musk


Scent Story:


Amidst the rugged wilderness of the Northwest Pacific, a group of young men gathered eagerly for a day of adventure on the rapids. It was a crisp morning, the air tinged with the cool freshness of the mountain peaks that overlooked the rushing river below. Towering pines framed the scene, their scent mingling with the delicate fragrance of wildflowers and the aromatic blends each man wore, including the newly introduced Eau de Rochas Pour Homme.

As they embarked on their whitewater rafting journey, the river roared around them, its clear waters splashing against the smooth rocks that lined its course. The men's laughter echoed through the forest, accompanied by the occasional calls of birds overhead and the rustling of leaves in the gentle breeze. The sunlight filtered through the dense canopy, dappling the rafts with playful patterns of light and shadow.

Among the group, the scent of Eau de Rochas Pour Homme permeated the air, its vibrant citrus top notes of verbena, lime, mandarin orange, basil, grapefruit, bergamot, and green lemon dancing alongside the natural fragrances of the outdoors. The middle notes of jasmine, eglantine, mountain narcissus, coriander, carnation, and wild rose added a floral elegance, reminiscent of the delicate blooms that dotted the riverbank.

As they navigated the river's twists and turns, the rush of adrenaline was punctuated by moments of tranquility. Passing by a hidden waterfall cascading down a rocky cliff, the men paused to take in the breathtaking sight. The water fell gracefully into a crystal-clear pool below, its mist creating a refreshing aura that mingled with the fragrant air.

Each sensory experience was vivid: the sight of rugged cliffs and verdant foliage, the scent of citrus and wildflowers, the taste of crisp mountain air, the sound of rushing water and birdcalls, and the touch of cool river spray on their skin. The base notes of patchouli, cypress, vetiver, cedar, oakmoss, sweet briar, sandalwood, ambergris, and musk in Eau de Rochas Pour Homme anchored the fragrance like the river's bedrock, imparting a grounding warmth that complemented the natural beauty surrounding them.

For these men, Eau de Rochas Pour Homme became more than a fragrance—it was a companion on their journey, capturing the essence of adventure, nature, and camaraderie in every exhilarating moment spent on the rapids. As they continued downstream, the fragrance and the memories it evoked remained intertwined, a testament to the enduring allure of fresh, citrusy scents and the spirit of exploration.



Bottles:


The evolution of the Eau de Rochas bottle design reflects a transition from classic elegance to a modern interpretation that captures the essence of its name and fragrance. Initially launched in 1948 as Eau de Roche, the perfume was housed in the iconic Rochas amphora flacon, a vessel renowned for its timeless appeal and regal presence on vanity tables. This classic design underscored the perfume's heritage and the luxury associated with the Rochas brand, encapsulating the essence of its fresh, invigorating scent.

By 1993, Eau de Rochas underwent a transformation both in formulation and presentation. The new bottle design, envisioned by renowned artist Serge Mansau and produced by Saint Gobain Desjonqueres, departed from traditional aesthetics to embrace a contemporary motif inspired by natural elements. The bottle resembled rock crystal, its surface shot through with delicate streams of running water. This innovative design not only mirrored the fragrance's name, "Eau de Rochas," but also symbolized purity, freshness, and the rejuvenating properties of water—central themes of the perfume itself.

Serge Mansau's creation for Eau de Rochas in 1993 became an iconic piece of olfactory artistry, marrying form and function with symbolic elegance. The bottle's crystalline appearance, accented by flowing water-like patterns, appealed to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts while paying homage to the perfume's origins. It stood as a testament to Rochas' commitment to innovation and timeless sophistication, ensuring that Eau de Rochas remained a staple in the world of haute perfumery, cherished for its exquisite blend and captivating presentation.






Fate of the Fragrance:


In 2014, Eau de Rochas received a special treatment with the introduction of a limited edition 50ml eau de toilette, presented in packaging that showcased the talents of illustrator Aurore de La Morinerie. Known for her distinctive style that blends elegance with whimsy, La Morinerie's collaboration with Rochas brought a fresh perspective to the fragrance's presentation.

The packaging designed by Aurore de La Morinerie for this limited edition was a testament to her artistic vision and Rochas' dedication to craftsmanship. Each detail was meticulously crafted to enhance the allure of Eau de Rochas, reflecting the essence of the fragrance within. The illustrator's work often incorporates elements of nature and fluid lines, which resonated perfectly with the perfume's theme of natural freshness and invigoration.

The 50ml eau de toilette bottle, housed in Aurore de La Morinerie's packaging, became a collector's item sought after by fragrance connoisseurs and admirers of fine art alike. It encapsulated the spirit of Eau de Rochas in a new, visually captivating way, drawing inspiration from the fragrance's essence while adding a contemporary touch through the illustrator's unique interpretation.

Overall, the collaboration between Rochas and Aurore de La Morinerie in 2014 underscored the timeless appeal of Eau de Rochas while infusing it with a modern aesthetic. It celebrated the fragrance's heritage while appealing to a new audience, making it not just a scent to wear but a piece of art to admire and cherish.


As of 2024, the Eau de Rochas fragrance is still available on Rochas' website.

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