In 1960, when Madame Rochas was launched, the world was experiencing a cultural shift marked by a blend of traditional elegance and modern sophistication. It was a time of post-war recovery and burgeoning prosperity, where women's roles were evolving, and the concept of femininity was being redefined. The 1960s represented a period of glamour, refinement, and a growing interest in luxury and beauty products.
Parfums Rochas chose the name "Madame Rochas" for its new perfume as a reflection of the idealized woman of that era. "Madame" connotes a sense of sophistication, maturity, and authority, suggesting a woman who is confident, elegant, and cultured. This choice of name aligns perfectly with the image Rochas sought to evoke — that of a refined, cosmopolitan woman who embodies grace and charm.
"Madame Rochas" would have been particularly appealing to women who identified with or aspired to embody such qualities. It appealed not only to those in metropolitan areas but also to women in smaller towns, reflecting a broader demographic reach beyond the elite circles typically associated with high fashion and luxury goods. The perfume was positioned as an elegant yet accessible option, offering a touch of luxury that was attainable to a wider audience.
The name "Madame Rochas" evokes images of sophistication, Parisian chic, and a certain timeless elegance. It suggests a woman of taste, someone who values quality and refinement in every aspect of her life. The perfume itself, created by Guy Robert, likely embodied these qualities through its composition — blending floral notes with hints of citrus and warm undertones, creating a fragrance that is both classic and modern, sophisticated yet approachable.
When questioned by the Women's News Service in 1967 about the decision to launch Madame Rochas following the success of Femme, Howard Zagor, president of Parfums Marcel Rochas, provided a revealing perspective: "Perfumes have definite personalities. We started with a perfume which was definitely French, cosmopolitan in its appeal. For less sophisticated women and smaller towns, Femme [de Rochas] wasn't always right. So we created Madame Rochas, which is still an elegant perfume but has a broader appeal to the average person." Zagor's response underscored the nuanced approach to fragrance marketing during that era. Femme, celebrated for its French sophistication, may have been perceived as too exclusive for all tastes and regions. In contrast, Madame Rochas was crafted to maintain elegance while catering to a wider audience, ensuring it resonated with a broader spectrum of women seeking accessible luxury and timeless allure.
Overall, "Madame Rochas" encapsulated the spirit of its time, appealing to women who sought to express their femininity with grace and style. It aimed to complement and enhance the natural allure of its wearer, embodying the essence of French luxury and sophistication in a bottle.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does the original smell like? It is classified as a soft yet rich floral-aldehyde fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, honeysuckle and neroli
- Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, Anatolian rose, Bulgarian rose attar, tuberose, lily-of-the-valley, Florentine iris, ylang-ylang, violet and narcissus
- Base notes: Arabian frankincense, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, Tibetan musk, cedar, oakmoss and tonka bean
Guy Robert's composition of Madame Rochas in 1960 was a masterpiece of perfumery, crafted with meticulous attention to detail using nearly two hundred ingredients. One of the key bases he utilized was "Jasmine Flower," originally formulated in 1947 by Hubert Fraysse at Synarome, renowned for its exquisite jasmine accord complemented by hints of orange blossom. This base, also employed in Caleche by Hermes, provided a lush foundation for Madame Rochas, enriching its floral profile with a delicate yet captivating aroma.
Madame Rochas is celebrated for its romantic allure, boasting a complex bouquet that includes polianthes (tuberose), Bulgarian rose attar, Florentine iris, narcissus, and the prized white jasmine from Grasse. These floral notes are harmoniously intertwined with honeysuckle and tuberose, creating a heady, intoxicating blend. Mossy undertones and the earthy aromas of cedar and sandalwood evoke woodland scents, while a peppery herb note adds a subtle spice. Citrus notes inject a lively zest, balancing the fragrance with a refreshing tang.
The base notes of Madame Rochas contribute to its lasting depth and sophistication. Ambergris, musk, and Arabian incense infuse warmth and sensuality, while cedar and sandalwood continue to impart a serene, woody backdrop. The artistry lies in Robert's skillful blending, where each element harmonizes seamlessly to create a symphony of scent, ensuring that no single note dominates but rather, each contributes to the perfume's overall allure and timeless appeal.
Bottles:
The first edition bottle of Madame Rochas is a striking homage to 18th-century elegance, inspired by a Baccarat cut crystal design that caught Helene Rochas' eye in a Parisian antique shop. This octagonal shape, meticulously replicated, exudes a sense of timeless sophistication and luxury. The final design, masterfully executed by Pierre Dinand, retained the essence of its antique inspiration while adapting to modern manufacturing techniques. Produced by Pochet et du Courval with plastic elements crafted by Augros, these bottles featured a distinctive gold-tone metal cap and an ornate beaded metal collar, elements that added to its opulent appeal.
Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, these bottles remained icons of perfume packaging, revered for their classic yet contemporary aesthetic. The labels, adorned with the elegant copperplate script of "Madame Rochas," beautifully combined initialed capitals with lowercase letters, echoing a balance of refinement and approachability that mirrored the fragrance itself. This meticulous attention to detail in both design and presentation ensured that Madame Rochas not only captured the essence of its historical inspiration but also stood out as a symbol of enduring elegance in the world of perfumery.
Eau de Cologne & Parfum de Toilette:
Parfums Marcel Rochas introduced the Parfum de Toilette as a refined alternative between traditional perfume and cologne, filling a niche that offered a lighter yet longer-lasting fragrance experience. This innovation allowed wearers to indulge more lightly without compromising on the luxurious essence of the scent. It provided a balance where one could be elegantly lavish yet subtly sophisticated.
During the period spanning the early 1960s to the late 1970s, the packaging of Eau de Cologne and Parfum de Toilette bottles reflected a distinct aesthetic. Simple cylindrical bottles featured a screen-printed tapestry brocade pattern on the glass, adorned with gold plastic caps that added a touch of opulence. The design extended to accessories such as the purse atomizer, which replicated the tapestry motif on its metal cylinder, and the cologne atomizer, distinguished by a beige plasticized finish embellished with a sculptured cartouche from the tapestry design. Consistent with the theme, the packaging boxes featured an orangey-gold brocade pattern against a white background, harmonizing with the elegance and sophistication synonymous with the Rochas brand. These details not only enhanced the visual appeal but also underscored the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that defined Marcel Rochas' approach to perfume presentation during that era.
The vintage (original) formula was available in the following:
- Parfum (perfume) - 1960s-1980s
- Eau de Cologne - 1960s-1980s
- Parfum de Toilette - 1970s-1980s
- Eau de Toilette -1970s-1980s
- Eau de Parfum - 1980s-1990s
- Foaming Bath Cream
- Bath and Shower Gel
- Bath Oil
- Body Cream
- Soap
- Spray Deodorant
- Dusting Powder
- Talcum Powder
- Silver tone filigree perfume flacon necklace (1976)
Fate of the Fragrance:
In 1989, Madame Rochas underwent a significant transformation when it was reformulated by perfumers Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jacques Fraysse. This relaunch marked a new chapter for the fragrance, aiming to contemporize its appeal while maintaining its timeless elegance. The reformulation process likely involved adjusting the composition to align with evolving trends and consumer preferences of the late 1980s, ensuring it remained relevant in a competitive market.
Accompanying the reformulation was a complete overhaul of the packaging. The new design introduced in 1989 would have reflected contemporary aesthetics and packaging trends of the time, potentially departing from earlier ornate designs to embrace a more streamlined and modern look. Details such as bottle shape, cap design, and label aesthetics would have been carefully reconsidered to enhance shelf presence and appeal to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts.
This relaunch was not just about updating the scent and packaging but also about revitalizing Madame Rochas' image to resonate with modern sensibilities while preserving its classic allure. By combining the expertise of Sieuzac and Fraysse in perfume creation with a fresh visual identity, Parfums Marcel Rochas aimed to ensure Madame Rochas continued to captivate and enchant perfume lovers well into the 1990s and beyond.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? This new version was based on the original but with a slightly more intense formula. The reformulated version bottles have beading along the edge of the cap.
- Top notes: orange blossom, broom, honeysuckle and neroli
- Middle notes: ylang-ylang, tuberose, jasmine, orris and Bulgarian rose
- Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, musk and amber
Packaging:
The new edition of Madame Rochas, launched in 1989 after the reformulation by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jacques Fraysse, featured a revamped packaging designed by the renowned Pierre Dinand. Known for his elegant and iconic designs in the world of perfumery, Dinand's touch would have brought a fresh, contemporary aesthetic to Madame Rochas while honoring its classic heritage.
The fragrance was offered in three sizes to cater to different preferences and needs: 30 ml, 50 ml, and 100 ml in Eau de Toilette concentration. This range of sizes ensured that Madame Rochas could be enjoyed both as a personal indulgence and a luxurious gift option, appealing to a wide spectrum of fragrance enthusiasts.
Dinand's design for the packaging would likely have emphasized clean lines, modern shapes, and possibly a refined color palette that complemented the updated fragrance within. The goal would have been to capture the essence of Madame Rochas' timeless elegance while presenting it in a manner that resonated with contemporary tastes and expectations.
Overall, the collaboration between Pierre Dinand and Parfums Marcel Rochas in 1989 resulted in a new edition of Madame Rochas that not only refreshed the fragrance itself but also revitalized its presentation, ensuring its continued relevance and appeal in the evolving landscape of perfumery.
2013 Reformulation & Repackaging:
Madame Rochas underwent another significant transformation in 2013 when it was reformulated and relaunched with new packaging. This update marked a deliberate effort by Parfums Marcel Rochas to adapt the fragrance to contemporary tastes while preserving its classic charm. The reformulation process likely involved adjusting the fragrance composition to reflect current trends and consumer preferences, ensuring it remained relevant in the competitive perfume market.
Accompanying the reformulation was a redesign of the packaging, which aimed to rejuvenate Madame Rochas' visual identity. The new packaging would have been crafted to resonate with modern aesthetics, possibly featuring sleek lines, minimalist designs, and a sophisticated color scheme. Such updates in packaging design are typically aimed at enhancing the overall appeal of the fragrance on store shelves and in the eyes of consumers.
This relaunch in 2013 represented a blend of honoring Madame Rochas' heritage while embracing contemporary sensibilities. It aimed to reintroduce the fragrance to both longtime devotees and new audiences alike, ensuring that Madame Rochas continued to captivate with its timeless elegance and allure.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley and neroli
- Middle notes: jasmine and Bulgarian rose
- Base notes: sandalwood and iris
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