Femme by Rochas c1944

After the Second World War, a new perfume was on the horizon. At the request of Marcel Rochas, Edmond Roudnitska created the perfume Femme. The perfume was inspired by Rochas's young wife. Legend has it that he gave it to her as his wedding present. “This extraordinary perfume", says Hélène Rochas, "was the most beautiful wedding gift I could dream of."

The Name:

The perfume "Femme" by Rochas was launched in 1944, a period marked by the tumult and uncertainty of World War II. France, occupied by Nazi Germany, was experiencing significant hardship. The war had brought about a scarcity of resources, rationing, and a pervasive sense of insecurity. Amid this backdrop, the creation and launch of "Femme" served as a poignant reminder of beauty, elegance, and resilience. Marcel Rochas, a couturier known for his innovative and elegant designs, introduced this perfume as a celebration of femininity and a symbol of hope and strength during trying times.

Marcel Rochas chose the name "Femme" to encapsulate the essence of womanhood. The name, meaning "woman" in French, was both a tribute to women and a reflection of their enduring grace and resilience. "Femme" was intended to embody the multifaceted nature of women—strong yet graceful, resilient yet tender, elegant yet grounded. During the war, when many women were shouldering additional responsibilities, stepping into roles traditionally held by men, and maintaining their households under challenging conditions, a perfume named "Femme" resonated deeply. It was a recognition of their strength and a celebration of their unwavering spirit.

"Femme" was an appropriate name for a perfume because it captured the essence of what Marcel Rochas wanted to convey through the fragrance. Perfumes often serve as an extension of one's identity, a way to express one's personality and mood. By naming the perfume "Femme," Rochas was offering a scent that women could wear to feel connected to their innate femininity and elegance. The name "Femme" suggested a fragrance that was sophisticated, timeless, and quintessentially feminine—qualities that many women aspired to, especially during a time when maintaining a sense of normalcy and grace was a form of quiet defiance against the chaos of war.

Women of the 1940s, particularly those in France, would have related deeply to a perfume called "Femme." In a period when daily life was fraught with difficulties and uncertainties, wearing "Femme" would have been an act of self-affirmation and a way to reclaim a sense of beauty and personal dignity. The response to this perfume would likely have been one of appreciation and emotional resonance. It provided a sense of luxury and normalcy, offering an olfactory escape and a reminder of the elegance that persisted despite the harsh realities of war. For many women, "Femme" would have been more than just a fragrance; it would have been a source of comfort and empowerment.

The word "Femme" evokes images of timeless elegance and innate strength. It conjures feelings of sophistication, beauty, and resilience. The term brings to mind the classic image of a woman who is both graceful and strong, someone who navigates life's challenges with poise and dignity. "Femme" suggests a perfume that is rich, complex, and enduring—qualities that reflect the inner strength and multifaceted nature of women. In the context of 1943, the word "Femme" would have been a powerful reminder of the unyielding spirit of women, making the perfume a fitting homage to their enduring grace and resilience.

The Scent:

During the occupation of France in World War II it was impossible to receive shipments of raw materials. Poking around through stored and discarded drums of material in the yards of the De Laire perfume plant near Paris, Edmond Roudnitska came across an unusual compound that had never been used before. It has been aging, undisturbed in the yard for many years. Using this new material with its unusual peach and apricot scent and in combination with oakmoss, this talented perfumer created the seductive fragrance Femme. 

Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska talked about the humble creation of his sumptuous perfume Femme, "Let me tell you, I created Femme in 1943 in Paris during the worst days of the war in a building that had a rubbish dump on one side and paint factory on the other." Roudnitska allegedly found discarded leftover vats of the chemicals methyl ionone, provides a violet odor, and Prunol, a chemical containing aldehyde C14 and smells like fruity plums, in a De Laire factory and made use of it in the creation of Femme. 

In December of 1944, Roudnitska found himself in a quandary, he had a wonderful new formula but wartime restrictions made it nearly impossible to fulfill his dream. Due to the war and Nazi occupation, importations were halted and there was very little alcohol available to perfumeries.  As a result, all the competitors clamored to get whatever they could get their hands on. In fact, Roudnitska was only able to procure enough alcohol to fill 500 bottles with his new creation. But where to find these 500 bottles? Like alcohol and other necessary materials, perfume bottles were in short supply.

The First Batch:

After chatting with his friend Marc Lalique, the two hatched a plan to issue the new Femme fragrance in a limited edition of only 500 deluxe examples. Combined with the fact that the procurement of the ingredients and raw materials was restricted, this would give them a coveted cachet and would ensure they would sell quickly. These fabulous bottles would each be numbered and fitted with a satin ribbon, rather than a paper label, around the long neck like a collar. The satin ribbon, in shades of dove gray, had the name of the perfume, Femme and its maker, Marcel Rochas embroidered in black. The use of the simple, but elegant ribbon as a label, was a clever way to tie his fashions to his fragrances. 

Towards the end of 1944, after the luxurious Lalique flacons were filled and the silky ribbons tied about the neck, Rochas issued a letter inviting select women to purchase his first perfume. Some of the lucky recipients of this first edition were notables such as Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, Baroness Rothschild and Princess Marina of Greece and Denmark. 

For the Public:

The following year, Rochas rolled out a line of less expensive flacons and released the fragrance to the public. The sophisticated scent was highly praised by critics.

The Bermudian, 1946:

"Paris is ga-ga over the perfume by Marcel Rochas. It's called Femme"

When Women's News Service asked why Marcel Rochas would still bring out a new perfume after the immense success of Femme, Howard Zagor, president of Parfums Marcel Rochas in 1967, he gave a surprising reply, "Perfumes have definite personalities. We started with a perfume which was definitely French, cosmopolitan in its appeal. For less sophisticated women and smaller towns, Femme wasn't always right. So we created Madame Rochas, which is still an elegant perfume but has a broader appeal to the average person."

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral chypre fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: bergamot, hyacinth, lemon, petitgrain citronnier, peach, prune, plum, apricot, aldehyde, oleander, acacia
• Middle notes: oregano, iris, cinnamon, carnation, violet, Bulgarian rose, immortelle, white Grasse jasmine, ylang-ylang
• Base notes: leather, castoreum, cardamom, labdanum, civet, patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, musk, oak moss, sandalwood

Rochas Femme was composed of over one hundred ingredients. The fruity note in Femme was introduced in the form of a prefabricated base, in this case, Prunol of de Laire. It took de Laire almost six years to reproduce exactly the unusual compound that is the secret of the unique Femme fragrance. They succeeded and Femme continues as one of the classic perfumes of the century. 

As with earlier chypre formulations, Femme contains a high proportion of fresh citrus top notes. At its heart, the perfume features a fruity jasmine note and the aromachemical methyl ionone, which produces the scent of dewy violets. Musk, civet and castoreum, sharpened by the singular sharpness of hyacinth aldehyde, are nuanced with rose, lilac, iris, tuberose, oregano, patchouli and ylang ylang atop mosses. Typical chypre accord notes of oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum and precious Mysore sandalwood and the warmth of spices and a little help from the leather notes of quinolines round out the fragrance.

In his autobiography, A Life of Perfume, Roudnitska mentions that "In 1943, during the occupation, I freely composed the perfume "Femme" that Marcel Rochas launched as is underwriting in 1944, immediately after the liberation. This is not a chypre, as we tend to catalog, because most perfumes contain oakmoss today, but are not chypre.. "Femme" is an aldehydic floral perfume, very fruity, with a double woody and candied characteristic. This is his summary profile that is not that of a chypre and even less that of Coty's prototype."

A 1952 advertisement in the Milwaukee Journal describes the perfume:

 "One French perfumer offers his well known Femme or La Rose in a pretty box for gift giving. The graceful Lalique designed bottle, labeled only on the stopper, nestles in billows of filmy net in an oval box.  This presentation is veiled in black lace - the trademark of this perfume house.  

Femme is a blend of more than 200 rare flower essences from all over the world. Predominant is the exquisite jasmine with overtones of lush, tropical blossoms. This is completely feminine and flattering fragrance as its name would imply.  La Rose captures the heady fragrance of fresh cut  roses with a hint of their pungent leaves and stems."

Combat, 1952:

"In the rustle of silk dresses, the "Mouche" with golden wings that Rochas invented exhales in its frenzied round a warm and tenacious perfume charged with the juice of exotic flowers which "Femme" becomes intoxicated with. Yet freeing itself from the heady influence of vetiver and patchouli barely tempered by ylang ylang, "Mousseline" leaves in its wake a diaphanous and delicate cloud."

A 1953 ad describes Femme as "Flowers and fruit superbly wreathed together into one of the most compelling perfumes of our era." 

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Femme by Marcel Rochas: it is from a voluptuous base of musk, civet and castoreum, sharpened by the singular acuity of 'hyacinth aldehyde', that this time release the waves of jasmine. Their cello vibration covers without reducing them to silence, the violins of rose, iris, oregano, patchouli and ylang ylang, for a symphony of acute femininity. Drunk boat of travelers in their room,. tenderness and exaltation."

Combat, 1955:

"Femme, new presentation in an Atomizer bottle allowing a spray that impregnates the whole body with eau de cologne scented with Marcel Rochas extract. The most recent victory of French perfumery. With a voluptuous base of musk and castoreum , sharpened by the singular acuity of 'hyacinth aldehyde', the waves of jasmine emerge. Their cello vibrations lead, in a symphony of acute femininity, the violins of the rose, the iris, the oregano and patchouli. The simples of eau de cologne lighten the extract. A nymph directs the orchestra of Venus."

The Bottles:

The Lalique Femme Flacon: An Ode to Feminine Curves

The inspiration for the perfume bottle of "Femme" by Rochas is said to have been drawn from the shapes of the female form. This influence is evident in the bottle's design, which features a curvy amphora shape reminiscent of the graceful and alluring contours of a woman's body. Designed by the renowned glass artist Marc Lalique, based on sketches by Marcel Rochas, the bottle is an artistic embodiment of femininity and elegance, mirroring the essence of the perfume it holds.

The original "Femme" flacon is a masterpiece of design, characterized by its unique shape and intricate details. The bottle itself takes the form of an amphora, with its body shaped into a curved disc that has a flat belly. This design not only accentuates the bottle's feminine inspiration but also provides a tactile and visual delight. The flat belly features a molded decoration of a flower, adding a touch of delicate beauty and symbolizing the blossoming nature of femininity. The bottle stands on a pedestal, giving it an elevated and regal presence.

The neck of the bottle is long and slender, leading to a collar that is fitted with a frosted glass cabochon stopper. This convex-shaped stopper is also molded with floral decoration, continuing the theme of natural beauty and sophistication. The frosted glass adds a sense of mystery and allure, hinting at the fragrant treasure contained within. This original flacon, designed by Marc Lalique, is signed with acid stamps reading "Lalique Bottle Made in France" on the base, marking its authenticity and origin.

Today, the iconic "Femme" bottle continues to be sold, albeit in a slightly modified form. The contemporary version retains the essence of the original design but is less detailed than the edition created for Rochas. This modern iteration is known as the "Moulin Rouge" flacon, a name that evokes the glamour and allure associated with the famous Parisian cabaret. Sold empty, this version of the bottle is available as part of the Maison Lalique catalogue and can be found exclusively in Lalique shops.

The "Moulin Rouge" flacon maintains the legacy of the original "Femme" bottle, preserving its curvaceous shape and elegant design while simplifying some of the more intricate details. This ensures that the bottle remains a timeless piece of art, celebrating the enduring beauty and sophistication of the female form. Whether filled with perfume or displayed as a collector's item, the "Femme" flacon continues to captivate and inspire, much like the women who inspired its creation.

Femme, 1946:

"But here, in its padded white satin box, under its black lace mantilla, "Femme," by Marcel Rochas...a presentation so new and of such refined luxury, that it would already be enough, on its own. When choosing this perfume, we won't say anything about it: try it, it is, like the woman herself, what we can love the most (when we love it)."

The Iconic Amphora Femme Flacon:

As mentioned earlier, Femme was originally produced in a limited, numbered edition, manufactured by Lalique, and the following year it was made available to the public in the less expensive flacons. After the deluxe Lalique editions sold out, Rochas needed to find another bottle for the next batch of Femme parfum. He again turned to Marc Lalique, who designed a more streamlined bottle that would easier to make and therefore be slightly less expensive. 

However, this still proved to be too costly and Rochas needed another bottle supplier. He turned to bottle manufacturer Pochet et du Courval, who continued making the stylized amphora flacons for Femme. 

In essence, the initial bottles were made by Lalique, and the rest by Pochet. To differentiate whether your bottle is Lalique or by Pochet, look at the base of the bottles, if it was made by Pochet, you will find the entwined "HP" mark for Pochet along with "Bottle Made in France" molded into the glass. If your bottle not molded with this information, it is most likely the Lalique example.

To open the classic Femme crystal flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Marcel Rochas themselves in 1963:

Use a razor blade to slit the plastic casing that surrounds the top. Then heat the bottle neck with a match. 

Esquire, 1954:

"Urn-shaped bottle of Femme comes in an attractive lace - covered box , by Marcel Rochas , $40 the ounce."

Packaging:

The packaging of "Femme" by Rochas was adorned with printed black Chantilly lace, a design element crafted by Albert Gosset. This lace design was a nod to the iconic corset that Rochas famously created for Mae West, evoking a sense of vintage glamour and sensuality. The intricate lace pattern added a touch of elegance and femininity to the packaging, enhancing the overall luxurious feel of the perfume. While the luxury edition crystal bottles were signed with the prestigious Lalique signature, other bottles were produced by Pochet et du Courval, ensuring that even the more accessible versions maintained a high standard of quality and refinement.

Femme was available in Parfum in five sizes:

• 1/4 oz (7.3 ml) (Ref # 156) stands 2.25" tall
• 1/2 oz (also listed as 0.44 oz or 13.3 ml) (Ref #154 ) stands 3.25" tall
• 0.7 oz (23 ml) (Ref #153) stands 3.34" tall.
• 1 oz (25 ml) (Ref #150) stands 3.75" tall
• 2 oz (Ref #152) stands 4.5" tall

In 1977 the following was available:

• Parfum Bottle 6.8cc
• Parfum Purse Size 4.5cc
• Parfum Atomizer (refillable) 14g

Purse Bottles:

Some charming purse bottles, known as "Flacon Sac," were designed to hold the "Femme" parfum. Among these were a frosted vial with a gilded cap, exuding a refined elegance. Additionally, there were two white opaline glass bottles: one with an oval shape, covered in delicate black lace, and the other, round with a matching round ball cap, nestled inside a black tulle pouch. The latter measured 1.88 inches in diameter and also came in a clear glass variant. These petite bottles were both functional and decorative, allowing women to carry a touch of luxury with them wherever they went.

Toilet Water & Cologne:

Housed in the elegant "amphora" bottles, the toilet water for "Femme" was available in two sizes, while the Eau de Cologne came in three different sizes, catering to various preferences and needs. In 1955, an atomizer for the Eau de Cologne was introduced, marking a significant innovation in the fragrance industry. A period newspaper advertisement proudly proclaimed that "Femme is the first perfume to have an atomizer," highlighting Rochas' pioneering spirit. This addition not only enhanced the convenience and ease of application but also elevated the overall experience of using "Femme," allowing women to enjoy the fragrance in a modern and sophisticated way.

• 1.8 oz Eau de Cologne Splash 
• stands 3.75" tall
• 2 oz Eau de Cologne Splash (Ref #2206)
• 4 oz Eau de Cologne Splash stands 5" tall. (Ref #2204)
• 5.75" tall

In 1977 the following was available:

• Eau de Cologne 102cc
• Eau de Cologne Atomizer 99g

Parfum de Toilette:

In 1958, the introduction of Parfum de Toilette marked another evolution in the "Femme" fragrance line. Parfum de Toilette is a term that refers to a type of fragrance concentration that typically lies between Eau de Parfum (EDP) and Eau de Toilette (EDT) in terms of the concentration of aromatic compounds. It offers a balance, providing a longer-lasting scent than Eau de Toilette but is lighter than Eau de Parfum. The Parfum de Toilette was used throughout the 1970s before being replaced by the Eau de Parfum.

In the context of "Femme" by Rochas, the introduction of Parfum de Toilette in 1958 represented a versatile and elegant addition to the fragrance line. It catered to those who desired a fragrance with a substantial presence yet preferred a lighter touch compared to traditional Parfum. This launch included the innovative metered spray bottle version of the Parfum de Toilette, as well as a "Pursatomizer," which featured a metered spray in a sleek, black etched silvery shaft. 

This period saw a significant advancement in the ease and precision of fragrance application. However, the bottles or boxes were not always clearly marked with their sizes, leading to some confusion. To assist with this, a handy guide was created, detailing size identification based on height measurements, ensuring that users could accurately determine the size of their "Femme" bottles.

This is the guide for the Parfum de Toilette splash bottles.

• stands 3" tall.
• 1 oz stands 3.5" tall (Ref #2007)
• 1.7 oz stands  3.75" tall (Ref #2006)
• 3.5 oz stands 4.75" tall. (Ref #2004)
• 6.8 oz stands 6" tall.
• 13.5 oz stands 7" tall.

In 1977 the following was available:

• Parfum de Toilette 102cc
• Parfum de Toilette 53cc
• Parfum de Toilette Atomizer 54g

 

Eau de Parfum:

In the 1980s and 1990s, "Femme" by Rochas underwent a significant update with the introduction of Eau de Parfum (EDP), which replaced the previously offered Parfum de Toilette (PDT). The EDP provided a richer and more concentrated version of the beloved fragrance, appealing to those who sought a deeper and longer-lasting scent experience. This change reflected evolving consumer preferences for more intense and enduring fragrances. The new Eau de Parfum maintained the luxurious and sophisticated essence of "Femme," ensuring its continued appeal among both new and loyal fans. The transition to EDP demonstrated Rochas' commitment to adapting to market trends while preserving the timeless elegance and femininity that "Femme" embodied.

• 25ml Eau de Parfum
• 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum
• 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum

Eau de Toilette:

Alongside the introduction of Eau de Parfum (EDP), in the 1990s and into the 2000s, "Femme" by Rochas was also offered in Eau de Toilette (EDT) form. Eau de Toilette is a lighter concentration of fragrance compared to Eau de Parfum, providing a fresher and more subtle scent experience. This expansion of the "Femme" fragrance line to include Eau de Toilette catered to a broader range of preferences and occasions. The EDT version maintained the essence of "Femme," offering a lighter and more refreshing option for daily wear or warmer climates. This dual offering of EDP and EDT ensured that "Femme" continued to appeal to a diverse audience, from those who preferred a more intense and long-lasting fragrance to those who favored a lighter and more invigorating scent profile.

• 1 oz Eau de Toilette
• 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette
• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette

Ancillary Products:

In addition to the various concentrations of perfume, "Femme" by Rochas offered a luxurious range of ancillary products to complement the fragrance experience. These included dusting powder, talcum powder perfumed with the scent of "Femme," bath oil infused with its fragrance, and scented soaps. Each of these products was meticulously crafted to enhance and prolong the olfactory pleasure of wearing "Femme." The dusting powder provided a silky, fragrant veil for the skin, offering a subtle yet alluring touch of the perfume. The talcum powder, delicately scented, offered a refreshing and comforting application after bathing or throughout the day. Bath oil provided a luxurious bathing experience, enveloping the senses in the signature scent of "Femme," while scented soaps offered a cleansing ritual infused with its elegant fragrance. Together, these ancillary products ensured that "Femme" by Rochas offered a comprehensive and indulgent fragrance journey, enhancing every aspect of personal care with its timeless allure.

Fate of the Fragrance:

For many years, Pochet et du Courval had been the manufacturer responsible for producing the iconic bottles of "Femme" by Rochas, ensuring a consistent standard of quality and craftsmanship. However, by 1987, there was a notable shift in production as Saint Gobain Desjonqueres took over the manufacturing of the bottles for the fragrance. This transition marked a new chapter in the packaging of "Femme," bringing with it the expertise and innovation of Saint Gobain Desjonqueres, a renowned glass manufacturer known for its precision and commitment to excellence. The bottles produced by Saint Gobain Desjonqueres continued to uphold the legacy of elegance and sophistication associated with "Femme," ensuring that each vessel not only housed the cherished fragrance but also reflected the timeless beauty and quality that Rochas was known for.

First Reformulation:

In either 1989 or 1992, "Femme" by Rochas underwent a significant reformulation under the creative direction of Olivier Cresp from Quest International. According to records from Osmotheque, a renowned scent archive, Cresp reimagined the perfume using modern ingredients while drawing inspiration from his own memories of family members who had worn the original fragrance. This reformulation aimed to contemporize "Femme" while honoring its storied legacy, reflecting a blend of nostalgia and innovation in its composition.

Cresp's interpretation resulted in a distinctive shift from the original formulation. Known for its 'earthy' and mossy chypre character, the reformulated "Femme" exuded a lighter and more contemporary allure compared to its predecessor. This transformation embraced current trends while maintaining the essence of the fragrance that had captivated generations. The iconic bottles, retaining the signature Mae West shape with black caps, maintained continuity with the original design, offering a familiar yet updated presentation for enthusiasts and new admirers alike.

This reformulation by Olivier Cresp not only breathed new life into "Femme" but also ensured its relevance in a changing fragrance landscape. By infusing modern sensibilities with a nod to its heritage, the fragrance continued to resonate with those who appreciated its timeless elegance and sophisticated charm, solidifying its place as a beloved classic in the world of perfumery.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, peach, pear
• Middle notes: Damascene rose, cumin, iris, cinnamon, immortelle, jasmine, carnation, ylang ylang, plum
• Base notes: rosemary, labdanum, rosewood, civet, patchouli, leather, sandalwood, oakmoss, musk, amber

Scent Profile:

"Femme" by Rochas is celebrated for its complex and multifaceted fragrance composition, which unfolds in layers of aromatic richness. The perfume opens with a vibrant bouquet of top notes that create an invigorating and fresh introduction. Aldehydes provide a sparkling effect, while notes of lemon and bergamot add a zesty brightness. The fruity nuances of peach and pear contribute a sweet and succulent aroma, enhancing the initial burst of freshness with their luscious undertones.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, "Femme" reveals a sophisticated floral accord intertwined with spices and aromatic elements. Damascene rose takes center stage, exuding its lush and romantic scent, while cumin adds a warm and slightly spicy note. Iris lends a powdery elegance, complemented by the comforting sweetness of cinnamon and the unique aromatic profile of immortelle. Jasmine, carnation, ylang ylang, and plum add depth and complexity, each contributing their own distinctive floral and fruity facets to the composition.

The base notes of "Femme" anchor the fragrance with a sensual and earthy foundation. Rosemary offers an herbal freshness, juxtaposed with the rich and resinous tones of labdanum. Rosewood adds a woody warmth, while civet provides an animalic and musky undertone. Patchouli contributes a deep earthiness, balanced by the creamy and smooth character of sandalwood. Oakmoss lends a touch of green and mossy accord, intertwining with the warmth of amber and the lingering sensuality of musk. Together, these base notes create a lasting and memorable impression, embodying the timeless allure and sophistication of "Femme" by Rochas.

2011 Reformulation:

In 2011, "Femme" by Rochas underwent another significant reformulation under the direction of perfumer Jean-Michel Duriez. This reformulation was necessary due to regulatory changes by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), which restricted the use of certain ingredients, particularly oakmoss, known for its rich and earthy aroma. Duriez's task was to adapt the fragrance while preserving its essence and appeal, despite these regulatory challenges.

The reformulated 2011 version of "Femme" retained the spirit of the 1989 interpretation but with adjustments to comply with modern safety standards. Oakmoss, a key component of the original chypre fragrance, was minimized or replaced with alternative materials that offered a similar depth and character. This adjustment ensured that the fragrance continued to deliver a sophisticated and captivating experience, albeit with a slightly modified olfactory profile.

Accompanying the reformulation was a refresh in packaging. The new bottles of "Femme" featured peach-colored caps, a departure from the original black caps. This subtle change in packaging reflected a contemporary aesthetic while maintaining a visual connection to the fragrance's heritage. The updated presentation, coupled with the reformulated scent, aimed to appeal to both loyal enthusiasts and new audiences, ensuring that "Femme" by Rochas remained a timeless and beloved fragrance in the evolving world of perfumery.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, peach, pear
• Middle notes: May rose, carnation, immortelle, jasmine, iris, ylang ylang, plum
• Base notes: rosemary, oakmoss, leather, labdanum, patchouli, sandalwood, musk, amber

Scent Profile:

"Femme" by Rochas presents a symphony of notes that captivate the senses from the first spritz to the lingering base. Opening with a burst of freshness, the top notes combine aldehydes with the citrusy brightness of lemon and bergamot. These zesty elements are complemented by the juicy sweetness of peach and pear, creating an inviting and lively introduction that sets the stage for the fragrance journey ahead.

As the scent evolves, the heart of "Femme" unfolds with a rich tapestry of floral and spicy accords. May rose takes center stage, exuding its classic, romantic aroma, while carnation adds a hint of spiciness and depth. Immortelle contributes its unique honeyed and herbal notes, complemented by the intoxicating sweetness of jasmine and the powdery elegance of iris. Ylang ylang and plum add a touch of exoticism and fruity richness, enhancing the complexity and allure of the fragrance.

The base notes of "Femme" anchor the composition with a warm and sensual foundation. Rosemary offers an herbal freshness that intertwines with the earthy and mossy tones of oakmoss, providing depth and complexity. Leather adds a luxurious and distinctive character, while labdanum and patchouli contribute resinous and earthy nuances. Sandalwood brings a creamy and woody warmth, balanced by the lingering sensuality of musk and the amber's smooth and resinous sweetness. Together, these base notes create a lasting impression that envelops the wearer in the timeless elegance and sophistication of "Femme" by Rochas.

2013 Reformulation:

In 2013, "Femme" by Rochas underwent another significant reformulation, this time under the expertise of perfumer Olivier Cresp. Known for his skill in blending traditional and modern elements in fragrances, Cresp took on the task of reinterpreting "Femme" to meet contemporary standards and preferences while preserving its iconic essence.

Cresp's reformulation of "Femme" aimed to refine and enhance the fragrance, potentially adjusting its composition to comply with evolving industry regulations and consumer expectations. His approach likely involved balancing the original charm of the scent with updated techniques and ingredients, ensuring a harmonious blend that retained the fragrance's timeless appeal.

This reformulation by Olivier Cresp represented a continuation of efforts to keep "Femme" relevant and captivating in the modern perfume landscape. It sought to maintain the essence that had made "Femme" a classic, while possibly introducing subtle refinements to ensure its longevity and appeal to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: peach, plum and bergamot
• Middle notes: cumin, Bulgarian rose and jasmine
• Base notes: oakmoss, vanilla and patchouli

Scent Profile:

"Femme" by Rochas, classified as a floral fragrance for women, is celebrated for its timeless elegance and sophisticated composition. At its heart are three distinct layers of notes that unfold in a harmonious symphony on the skin.

The fragrance opens with a captivating blend of top notes that set a vibrant and inviting tone. Peach and plum offer a juicy and fruity sweetness, complemented by the citrusy brightness of bergamot. This initial burst of fragrance captures attention with its fresh and lively character, drawing the wearer into the deeper layers of the scent experience.

Moving into the heart of "Femme," the middle notes reveal a rich floral bouquet that adds depth and complexity to the composition. Bulgarian rose, renowned for its romantic and velvety aroma, takes center stage, surrounded by the exotic allure of jasmine. These floral notes intertwine with a hint of cumin, which adds a subtle spicy undertone, enhancing the fragrance with a touch of warmth and sophistication.

The base notes of "Femme" anchor the fragrance with a sensuous and enduring foundation. Oakmoss provides an earthy and mossy quality, contributing depth and longevity to the scent. Vanilla adds a creamy sweetness, creating a soft and comforting aura that lingers on the skin. Patchouli brings a touch of richness and depth, completing the fragrance with its distinctive and earthy character.

Together, these layers of notes in "Femme" by Rochas create a captivating olfactory journey that evolves beautifully over time. From its fruity and citrusy opening to the lush floral heart and the warm, earthy base, "Femme" epitomizes timeless femininity and sophistication, making it a cherished choice for women who appreciate classic and elegant fragrances.