Air Jeune by Marcel Rochas c1936

In 1936, the world was experiencing significant transitions. The lingering effects of the Great Depression were still felt globally, yet there was a palpable sense of hope and renewal. Paris, the epicenter of fashion and culture, was vibrant with creativity and resilience. It was against this backdrop that Marcel Rochas, a visionary couturier known for his modern and elegant designs, introduced his line of perfumes. These fragrances, including Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon, were exclusive to Rochas' fashion shows, embodying his philosophy that "one should notice the scent of a woman before even seeing her."

The name "Air Jeune" translates to "Young Air" in English, capturing a sense of youthful freshness and vitality. This name was carefully chosen to reflect the essence of the fragrance—a light, invigorating scent that exudes the spirit of youth and new beginnings. In a time when the world was slowly emerging from economic hardship, "Air Jeune" represented a breath of fresh air, symbolizing renewal and the promise of a brighter future.

"Air Jeune" was an appropriate name for a perfume designed to evoke feelings of rejuvenation and modernity. It appealed to the contemporary woman of the 1930s who was increasingly independent, confident, and keen on embracing new trends. This woman would be drawn to a fragrance that mirrored her own sense of freshness and sophistication, one that enhanced her presence and left a lasting impression.

The name "Air Jeune" conjures images of a breezy spring day, with blossoms in full bloom and the air filled with the promise of new possibilities. It evokes feelings of lightness, freedom, and the joy of youth. For the woman wearing "Air Jeune," the fragrance would be a reflection of her vibrant spirit and elegance, a scent that precedes her, captivating and enchanting those around her.

In conclusion, "Air Jeune" by Rochas, launched in 1936, was more than just a fragrance; it was a symbol of youthful vitality and modern elegance. The name itself, meaning "Young Air," perfectly encapsulated the essence of the perfume, appealing to the contemporary, sophisticated woman of the era. Through this fragrance, Rochas offered a sense of freshness and renewal, aligning with his vision that the scent of a woman should make a memorable statement before she is even seen.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no published notes on this fragrance. Based on Vogue's description, it may be something like this:

• Top notes: citrus blossoms (lemon, grapefruit), apple blossom, peach blossom
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, gardenia
• Base notes: green notes, musk, ambergris

 

Vogue, 1936:

"Young Air by Rochas. In a garden in the beautiful season: all the flowers and also the flower of the fruits."

Bottles:

In 1936, Marcel Rochas launched his line of perfumes exclusively at his fashion shows, featuring iconic fragrances like Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon. The bottles for these perfumes were distinctly Art Deco-inspired, reflecting the chic and elegant ambiance of Rochas' boutique at 12 Avenue Matignon in Paris. Crafted from white opaline glass, the bottles came in both square and rectangular shapes, embodying the geometric simplicity characteristic of Art Deco design.

Each bottle was adorned with a matching opaline glass stopper, elegantly molded with the initials "MR" for Marcel Rochas, seamlessly integrated into the design. A blue paper label wrapped around the middle of the bottle, providing a touch of color and indicating the fragrance contained within.

Available in seven different sizes, including one with an atomizer for a refined application, these bottles epitomized luxury and sophistication. However, the outbreak of the Second World War led to the swift withdrawal of these perfumes from sale, rendering them exceptionally rare and highly prized among collectors today. The Art Deco styling of these bottles not only captured the essence of Rochas' fashion empire but also reflected the era's artistic spirit, showcasing beauty and elegance in every detail.

Reste Jeune, 1936: 

"More news: it's the Marcel Rochas trio: Audace, Air Jeune, Avenue Matignon. All the soul of the modern Parisienne (dressed by Rochas). The presentation is also "Rochas"; imagine almost square bottles, in white material, identical to Sèvres biscuit; they are banded in indigo blue with a red line and the name of the perfume in white. The box seems to be made of very clean, very chic white enamel." 

Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 39 - Page 461, 1936: 

"MARCEL ROCHAS The perfumes and toiletries of Marcel Rochas have come to America and are distributed by Pierre Amouroux, Inc. The bottles and packages are extremely smart in white with a wide blue band, and white and red lettering."

In 1936, Marcel Rochas introduced his trio of perfumes—Audace, Air Jeune, and Avenue Matignon—each embodying the essence of the modern Parisienne dressed by Rochas. The presentation of these fragrances mirrored Rochas' signature style, characterized by almost square bottles crafted from white material reminiscent of Sèvres biscuit porcelain. Adorned with an indigo blue band accented by a striking red line and the perfume's name in elegant white lettering, the bottles exuded a sense of chic minimalism. The packaging, described as clean and sophisticated white enamel, complemented the aesthetic appeal, reinforcing Rochas' commitment to luxury and style. As these perfumes made their way to America, distributed by Pierre Amouroux, Inc., they brought with them the allure of Parisian elegance encapsulated in their smart, distinctive design.

Luxury Goods:

In 1936, Marcel Rochas introduced his perfumes at a range of prices, from $4.50 to $32.00. Adjusted for inflation to 2024 values, these prices would equate to approximately $102.45 to $728.52. These figures highlight the luxurious and exclusive nature of Rochas' perfumes, particularly considering the economic backdrop of the Great Depression, where financial hardship was widespread.

The decision to offer perfumes at such high prices during this challenging economic period can be understood in several contexts. Firstly, Marcel Rochas positioned himself as a couturier catering to the elite and affluent segments of society. His clientele included wealthy individuals who could afford luxury goods regardless of economic downturns. By associating his perfumes with his haute couture fashion line, Rochas aimed to maintain an aura of exclusivity and prestige, appealing to those who valued quality and sophistication.

During the Great Depression, while many struggled financially, there was still a segment of society insulated from severe economic impacts. Those who could afford Rochas' perfumes typically belonged to upper-class circles, affluent professionals, and celebrities who maintained their spending power. These individuals continued to patronize luxury brands and sought out items that conveyed status and refinement.

To provide context, the average weekly salary in 1936 varied significantly depending on the occupation and region but generally ranged from about $20 to $30 per week for many working-class individuals. This stark contrast highlights that Rochas' perfumes were indeed luxury items accessible primarily to those with substantial disposable income. Despite the economic challenges of the era, the allure of luxury and the prestige associated with Marcel Rochas' brand ensured a niche market willing and able to invest in his exclusive perfumes.

L'Art Vivant, 1936:

"Rochas: Avenue Matignon, Audace, Air Jeune. What could be more touching than these prestigious names, where memories of women, spring and bees persist."

Harper's Bazaar, 1936:

"Rochas' three perfumes - "Audace," "Avenue Matignon" and "Air Jeune" -- speak French with an American accent."

Theatre Guild Quarterly - Volume 15, 1937:

"MARCEL ROCHAS - Appearing in America for the first time this year, in three scents- - "Avenue Matignon", "Audace," "Air Jeune." $32. "

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Marcel Rochas' perfumes during the Second World War can be attributed to a combination of factors influenced by the global conflict. As the war escalated, various restrictions and challenges emerged that impacted the perfume industry and luxury goods sector as a whole.

One significant factor was the imposition of strict import and export regulations by wartime governments. Countries involved in the conflict implemented measures to conserve resources and prioritize essential supplies for the war effort. These restrictions often included limitations on the importation of non-essential goods, such as luxury perfumes, to focus resources on military needs and basic necessities.

Additionally, the availability of raw materials essential for perfume production became increasingly scarce during the war. Many ingredients traditionally sourced from countries now involved in the conflict were either unavailable or severely limited in supply. This scarcity disrupted the manufacturing processes necessary for producing high-quality perfumes like those created by Marcel Rochas.

The Nazi occupation of France, where Rochas' perfume operations were based, further exacerbated these challenges. Occupying forces imposed strict controls over industries and resources, diverting production towards war-related activities and restricting the operations of non-essential businesses. This likely led to the cessation of production and distribution of Rochas' perfumes as the focus shifted away from luxury goods towards wartime necessities.

In conclusion, the discontinuation of Marcel Rochas' perfumes during the Second World War was primarily driven by a combination of restrictions on imports and exports, dwindling supplies of essential ingredients, and the disruptive effects of Nazi occupation on industry and commerce in France. These factors collectively contributed to the temporary withdrawal of Rochas' fragrances from the market until the end of the war allowed for a potential revival of production and distribution.